Just like music, perfumes from different notes are built. Getting mastered of what notes are and how they work is the key for every perfume enthusiast. By properly understanding, you can find the perfect scent again and again. Not only for yourself, but certainly also for your partner if you know what he or she loves. In this article we explain everything about the differences between top, heart and base notes and within which odor families these combinations fall.
What are notes in perfume?
Sounds are the different scent layers in a perfume that together form a wonderfully scented whole. These layers are split into three different notes. The top notes, heart notes and base notes. Together these three layers create a perfume whose scent continues to develop from start to finish when you wear it. You must have noticed that a perfume does not smell the same all day. This is because each layer is based on the speed with which a scent fades. A good perfumer therefore plays with these three notes to create a unique composition, just like a musician does with music.
Top notes: The first impression
The top notes of a perfume are also called opening notes and ensure the first impression. Once you have a Eau de Parfum Sprayt, opens it with the top notes. This layer is the lightest of the three notes, but the most dominant scent in the first minutes to about an hour. Top notes therefore consist of the most volatile molecules in a perfume and keep hanging very temporarily. To properly assess a perfume you cannot judge it immediately in the first minutes, because it could just be that the top notes do not appeal to you, but that the heart of a perfume is exactly what you are looking for.
Typical top notes are citrus scents (bergamot, lemon, orange), light fruit (apple, blackberries, pineapple) and green/aromatic herbs (basil, thyme, lavender).
Heart notes: The heart of a perfume
When the top notes are softening, the heart notes are present. This layer gives a perfume its character and therefore forms the heart of a perfume. Heart notes are the most important element in a perfume, they extend the freshness of the top notes and give warmth to the basic notes. It is therefore not surprising that this layer determines around 40-80% of the final scent. Heart notes usually last 4 to 6 hours. The heart of a perfume must be pleasant and balanced.
Popular heart notes are flowers (jasmine, rose and neroli), leather, tobacco and spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon.
Basic notes: The soul of a perfume
Base notes are the last layer in a perfume and give a perfume of heat and depth. After all other notes have disappeared, you can sometimes continue to smell the base notes for days. It is therefore not surprising that base notes are called the soul of a perfume. They take care of the memory of a scent and the moment you worn it. Basic notes have the task of giving a long -term lasting impression. For example, when you put on your jacket when you had just gained perfume and you can smell the scent the next day.
Typical base notes are woods (sandalwood, Oudh and cedar), resins (Amber, Benzoin and Labdanum), and sweet elements such as vanilla and musk.
What are odor families?
To categorize perfumes, they are also classified into odor families in addition to their characteristic notes. Choosing a scent purely based on individual notes can be quite complex. That is why perfume expert Michael Edwards introduced the odor wheel. This innovative tool groups perfumes in different families, making it easier to quickly understand the essence of a perfume, even before you have smelled it.
Edwards' odor wheel offers a visual and understandable overview of the wide spectrum of perfumes. Because of this wheel, scents are not only easier to identify, but it also helps to find similar scents if you already have a favorite. The fragrance wheel is divided into four central odor families: floral, amber, woody and fresh. Within these families there are further subdivisions that emphasize specific nuances and characters of perfumes.
But not everything is black and white, some modern perfumes combine elements of multiple families, making it sometimes a challenge to precisely categorize them. And although the fragrance wheel is an excellent tool, there are times when experts do not agree on the precise layout of a perfume. In the end it's all about personal preference. The most important thing is to find scents that you find delicious and that reflect your personality.
Floral
Flower scents are perhaps the most recognizable and loved one in the perfume world. They often radiate a soft, feminine charm and are perfect for those who want to surround themselves with the smell of nature. Typical notes within this family are rose, jasmine and lily. They can vary from light and airy to deep and seductive, depending on the chosen flowers and combinations thereof.
- Freshly floral: Think of the fresh, floral aromas of woody, smoky rose or spicy, clear lily.
- Softly floral: These scents are known for their aldehydes and powdery notes.
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Floral ambery: Especially limited to facets of fresh, floral orange blossom and various sweet herbs.
Popular floral notes:
- Jasmine
- Rose
- Neroli
- Lily
- Peony
- Ylang Ylang
- Geranium
- Violets
Amber
Amberors, formerly known as 'Oriental', are known for their rich, deep, sensual and often exotic tones. These scents can be warm and resinous, often combined with sweet, powdery and spicy nuts. Consider the warmth of vanilla, the stimulus of cinnamon and the spicy touch of cardamom. They are perfect for evening options or for those who want to leave a lasting impression.
- Ambery: Here musk -like nuts such as vanilla, resins and a hint of cinnamon dominate.
- Soft ambery: This sub -family is more subtle and mixed with floral and anise nuts.
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Woody ambery: A mix of earthy sweetness, often enriched with nuances of soft sandalwood or deep patchouli.
Popular Amber Sandnuts:
- Vanilla
- Cinnamon
- Tonka Boon
- Labdanum
- Benzo
- Patchouli
- Incense
- Myrrh
- Rum
- Doctrine
- Musk
- Anise
- Clove
- Nutmeg
Woody
The Woody Fragrance Family brings us closer to the earth, with notes reminiscent of forests, earth and nature. Typical woodnuts are creamy sandalwood, soft camphor -like cedar and earthly musky patchouli. These scents are often unisex and have a timeless quality. They radiate a sense of warmth, stability and earthness, which makes them ideal for both daily use and special occasions.
- Woody: Dominated by notes of sandalwood and patchouli.
- Mossy wood: Light scents that are supple, soft and earthy.
- Dry wood: Think of scents such as cedar and vetiver. Often with creamy sandalwood tones and smoky accents, such as the soft, sharp aroma of leather.
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Aromatic: A combination of woody tones and aromatic freshness such as rosemary or lavender. This subcategory forms a bridge between the woody and fresh scent families.
Popular woody notes:
- Sandalwood
- Cedar
- Patchouli
- Vetiver
- Oudh
- Oak moss
- ISO E Super
- Spruce
- Cypress
- Tobacco
Fresh
Finally, but certainly not the least, we have the Fresh odor family. These scents are lively, energetic and often linked to nuts of citrus, aquatic aromas and green plants. They are like a refreshing breeze on a hot day or the scent of freshly cut grass. Perfect for spring and summer, or when you just need a boost.
- Aromatic (Fougère): Originally derived from the French word for "sailing". Characteristic are the pure, simple and fresh scents. Here we find a mix of sharp rosemary, spicy basil, calming lavender and warm, woody nuts.
- Citrus: Lively, sunny scents dominated by complex bergamot, invigorating citrus notes, orange, mandarin and grapefruit.
- Water: Pure maritime and fresh aquatic nuts, which embody the essence of the ocean and fresh water.
- Green: Stimulating, fresh, spicy and lively scents, often mixed with the aroma of green leaves or freshly cut grass.
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Fruity: Although this technically lies between the Fresh and Floral families on the fragrance wheel, it contains sweet aromas such as velvety peach, dense, slightly sugar -like pear and crispy apple.
Popular fresh notes:
- Lemon
- Lime
- Orange
- Bergamot
- Sage
- Lavender
- Basil
- Thyme
- Mint
- Green tea
- Lemongrass
- Rosemary
- IODINE
- Pineapple
Other odor families
Although Michael Edwards' scent wheel emphasizes four prominent odor families, there are various other odor families that also earn recognition. These families fall outside his traditional layout and offer a wide range of odor experiences that are both unique and intriguing.
- Chypre: Inspired by the island of Cyprus, Chypre scents combine the freshness of Bergamot, the depth of oak moss and the warm aroma of Labdanum. They have a characteristic earthy and sensual profile, which makes them both mysterious and seductive.
- Gourmand: These scents transport you to a patisserie with their delicious, edible aromas. With nuts reminiscent of vanilla, chocolate, caramel and other sweets, gourmand perfumes are like a dessert for the senses.
- Doctrine: The odor family of leather imitates the rich and characteristic aroma of leather, often enriched with notes of tobacco, tar and smoke. These scents are strong and robust, leaving them a lasting impression.
- Aldehyde: Aldehyden are organic compounds that add a sharp, clear quality to perfumes. Made famous by Chanel No. 5, they offer a sparkling top note that is both clean and refined.
- Boozy: Consider the warmth and richness of a good glass of cognac or the sharp sweetness of rum. Boozy scents have an alcoholic nut that is both warming and intoxicating.
- Minimalist: These scents have been stripped to the essence, often with only a few main ingredients. They are subtle and uncomplicated, making them perfect for lovers of simplicity and purity.
- Musky: Muskus is a basic note that gives warmth and depth to a perfume. Musky scents are both animal and sensual, often used to give a perfume a long -term sillage.
- Powdery: Consider the soft scent of baby powder or the velvety feeling of cosmetics. Powdery scents have a subtle, soft quality that is both classic and comfortable.
- Smoky: This scent family mimics the deep, dark scents of burnt wood, smoke and ash. They have an intense, almost meditative character and evoke images of campfires under the starry sky.