Everything you need to know about the straight razor

Alles wat je moet weten over het open scheermes

Shaving is super easy these days with electric razors with which you can do pretty little wrong. And although it is comfortable, the charm of shaving is almost completely lost. Classic shaving is in our eyes undervalued. With an open razor, which we also call a straight razor, you go for that classic shave. But what exactly is such a classic razor, what advantages does it offer and what should you pay attention to when buying one. Because up front, buying an old-fashioned razor is serious business. Once you have one, you also need to know how to use it, and how to maintain this blade so that it stays in top condition. You can read the answer to all these questions below.

An open razor, what exactly is it?

Open razors have been used since the 17th century, making it one of the oldest types of razors in the world. Today, the classic razor is mostly used by men who want the best possible shave, or who can appreciate the traditional way of shaving and, of course, by barbers. To shave properly, you need a practical and efficient open razor. These come in many shapes and sizes, where the steel type, size and tip type, among others, can vary. So it is important to familiarize yourself well with the different types before purchasing one.

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What are the advantages of an open razor?

Shaving with a classic razor offers some great advantages. We have listed the most important 3 for you.

  • Shaving becomes an experience again: Shaving nowadays is mostly about convenience and price when we look at the choice for a purchase. Yet it is now shifting more and more to quality and experience, shaving is not just a quick touch up of your face, the time can be taken to achieve a good result. It is a moment of relaxation for the modern man, and with a classic razor you complete this moment.
  • The result is second to none: You will never get as good a shave as with a classic razor, especially when compared to modern razors or shaving machines. You will find that your skin has never been so soft and smooth.
  • After the investment, it provides a financial benefit: Initially, a classic razor is an investment, they are more expensive than modern razors. However, the big advantage is that you can basically do with it your whole life, if you handle it properly. All you have to do is buy a good shaving soap once in a while.

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What should you pay attention to when buying a classic razor?

If you are going to buy a classic razor for the first time, there are a number of things you should pay attention to. We have also listed these for you so that buying the right one is a piece of cake.

Blade width

First of all, you need to look carefully at the width of the razor blade, which are listed in inches. The most common sizes are a 5/8 or 6/8, with the former being suitable for light to normal beard growth and the latter for somewhat heavier beard growth. In general, the heavier your beard growth is, the heavier the blade should be.

The head or tip of the blade

You have open razors with a rounded tip at the end, which are less likely to cause cuts. On the other hand, you also have some with a square tip, which are a little more likely to cause cuts. However, these are better for tight contours, so it's just what you want.

The material

The material can vary quite a bit. Most are made of carbon steel, carbon steel or stainless steel. The beginner often chooses the first two, which are easier to maintain. They do rust a little faster than stainless steel. Good maintenance is therefore extra important with the first two. Stainless steel stays sharp longer. Stainless steel is usually the most expensive option.

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Maintenance of a classic razor

Maintenance of an open razor is very important. After about a day, the razor, especially the metal, has recovered from the previous shave. Before you shave again, you should aim the razor, on your shaving belt, on the canvas side. This way, you make sure the hairs are in the right direction. Next, you need to hang the shaving belt and pull the belt towards you, at the bottom.

Now you can remove loose dust particles by hand. After this, you should put the blade at the bottom of the shaving belt, pointing the back upward. Then gently move the blade upward without pressing too hard on the blade while doing so, go up and down about 15 times. Then turn the shaving side with the leather side facing you and do the same but to sharpen and polish your knife. Repeat this about 20 to 25 times. If you have rust on your blade you can remove it with a mineral oil.

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How do you shave with a classic razor?

The first thing we want to say is; be careful. You can easily make cuts with a classic razor, so start by practicing around the sideburns. You lay the blade flat on the skin and make an angle of about 30 degrees. In the beginning, we recommend not shaving too tightly yet. For your cheeks, chin and upper lip, you can use a slightly smaller angle. You shave with calm and even movements, while keeping the skin taut with the other hand. Hold the razor relaxed between your fingertips. Try to operate the blade with three fingertips and the thumb. Rinse the blade regularly even while shaving. Always shave with the beard hairs first. Try to practice this as much as possible.

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