Like music, perfumes are made up of different notes. Mastering what scent notes are and how they work is key for any perfume lover. By properly understanding fragrance notes, you will know how to find the perfect scent every time. Not only for yourself, but certainly for your partner if you know what he or she likes. In this article we will explain to you all about the differences between top, heart and base notes and within which fragrance families these combinations fall.
What are fragrance notes in perfume?
Fragrance notes are the different scent layers in a perfume that combine to form a deliciously fragrant whole. These layers are broken down into three different fragrance notes. The top notes, heart notes and base notes. Together, these three layers create a perfume whose scent continues to develop from beginning to end as you wear it. You've probably noticed that a perfume doesn't smell the same all day. This is because each layer is based on how quickly a fragrance dissipates. So a good perfumer plays with these three notes, so to speak, to create a unique composition, just as a musician does with music.
Top notes: the first impression
The top notes of a perfume are also called opening notes and create the first impression. As soon as you spray a perfume, it opens with the top notes. This layer is the lightest of the three fragrance notes, but the most dominant scent in the first few minutes to about an hour. Top notes are therefore composed of the most volatile molecules in a perfume and linger only very temporarily. Therefore, to properly judge a perfume, you cannot judge it in the first few minutes, because could just be that the top notes do not appeal to you but the heart of a perfume is exactly what you are looking for.
Typical top notes are citrus scents (bergamot, lemon, orange), light fruits (apple, blackberry, pineapple) and green/aromatic herbs (basil, thyme, lavender).
Heart notes: the heart of a perfume
When the top notes are softening, the heart notes present themselves. This layer gives a perfume its character and therefore constitutes the heart of a perfume. Heart notes are the most important element in a perfume; they prolong the freshness of the top notes and give warmth to the base notes. Not surprisingly, this layer determines about 40-80% of the final scent. Heart notes typically last for 4-6 hours.The heart of a perfume should be pleasant and balanced.
Popular heart notes are floral (jasmine, rose and neroli), leather, tobacco and spices such as nutmeg and cinnamon.
Base notes: the soul of a perfume
Base notes are the last layer in a perfume and give a perfume warmth and depth. After all the other fragrance notes have disappeared, base notes can sometimes continue to be smelled for days. Not surprisingly, base notes are called the soul of a perfume. They provide the memory of a fragrance and the moment you wore it. Base notes have the job of giving a long-lasting lasting impression. For example, when you put on your coat when you had just applied perfume and you can still smell the scent the next day.
Typical base notes are woods (sandalwood, oudh and cedar), resins (amber, benzoin and labdanum), and sweet elements such as vanilla and musk.
What are fragrance families?
To categorize perfumes more clearly, they are also classified into scent families in addition to their distinctive scent notes. Choosing a fragrance purely on the basis of individual notes can be quite complex. That is why perfume expert Michael Edwards introduced the scent wheel. This innovative tool groups perfumes into different families, making it easier to quickly grasp the essence of a fragrance even before you've smelled it.
Edwards' scent wheel provides a visual and understandable overview of the broad spectrum of perfumes. This wheel not only makes fragrances easier to identify, but it also helps you find similar scents if you already have a favorite. The fragrance wheel is divided into four central fragrance families: Floral, Amber, Woody and Fresh. Within these families are further subdivisions that highlight specific nuances and characters of perfumes.
But not everything is black and white; some modern perfumes combine elements of multiple families, making it sometimes challenging to precisely categorize them. And while the scent wheel is an excellent tool, there are times when experts disagree on the exact classification of a perfume. In the end, it's all about personal preference. The most important thing is to find fragrances that you personally love and that reflect your personality.
Floral
Floral fragrances are perhaps the most recognizable and beloved in the perfume world. They often exude a soft, feminine charm and are perfect for those who want to surround themselves with the scent of nature. Typical notes within this family are rose, jasmine and lily. They can range from light and airy to deep and seductive, depending on the flowers and combinations chosen.
- Fresh Floral: Consider the fresh, floral aromas of woody, smoky rose or spicy, bright lily.
- Soft Floral: These fragrances are known for their aldehydes and powdery notes.
-
Floral Ambery: Primarily limited to facets of fresh, floral orange blossom and various sweet spices.
Popular floral fragrance notes:
- Jasmine
- Rose
- Neroli
- Lily
- Peony
- Ylang Ylang
- Geranium
- Violet
Amber
Amber fragrances, formerly known as "Oriental," are known for their rich, deep, sensual and often exotic notes. These scents can be warm and resinous, often combined with sweet, powdery and spicy notes. Think the warmth of vanilla, the tingle of cinnamon and the spicy touch of cardamom. They are perfect for evening occasions or for those who want to leave a lasting impression.
- Ambery: Here musky notes such as vanilla, resins and a hint of cinnamon predominate.
- Soft Amber ish: This subfamily is more subtle and blended with floral and anise notes.
-
Woody Amber ish: A blend of earthy sweetness, often enriched with nuances of soft sandalwood or deep patchouli.
Popular amber fragrance notes:
- Vanilla
- Cinnamon
- Tonka bean
- Labdanum
- Benzoin
- Patchouli
- Incense
- Myrrh
- Rum
- Leather
- Musk
- Anise
- Clove
- Nutmeg
Woody
The woody fragrance family brings us closer to the earth, with notes reminiscent of forests, earth and nature. Typical woody notes include creamy sandalwood, soft camphor-like cedar and earthy musky patchouli. These fragrances are often unisex and have a timeless quality. They exude a sense of warmth, stability and earthiness, making them ideal for both everyday use and special occasions.
- Woody: Dominated by notes of sandalwood and patchouli.
- Mossy Woody: Light scents that are smooth, soft and earthy.
- Dry Wood: Think of scents like cedar and vetiver. Often with creamy sandalwood notes and smoky accents, such as the soft, sharp aroma of leather.
-
Aromatic: A combination of woody notes and aromatic freshness such as rosemary or lavender. This subcategory forms a bridge between the woody and fresh fragrance families.
Popular woody fragrance notes:
- Sandalwood
- Cedar
- Patchouli
- Vetiver
- Oudh
- Oakmoss
- Iso E Super
- Spruce
- Cypress
- Tobacco
Fresh
Last, but certainly not least, we have the Fresh fragrance family. These fragrances are lively, energetic and often paired with notes of citrus, aquatic aromas and green plants. They are like a refreshing breeze on a hot day or the smell of freshly cut grass. Perfect for spring and summer, or when you just need a pick-me-up.
- Aromatic (Fougère): Originally derived from the French word for "fern." Characterized by clean, simple and fresh scents. In it we find a mix of sharp rosemary, spicy basil, calming lavender and warm, woody notes.
- Citrus: Vibrant, sunny scents dominated by complex bergamot, invigorating citrus notes, orange, mandarin and grapefruit.
- Water: Pure maritime and fresh aquatic notes, embodying the essence of the ocean and fresh water.
- Green: Stimulating, fresh, spicy and vibrant scents, often blended with the aroma of green leaves or freshly cut grass.
-
Fruity: Although technically in between the Fresh and Floral families on the fragrance wheel, it contains sweet aromas such as velvety peach, dense, slightly sugary pear and crisp apple.
Popular Fresh fragrance notes:
- Lemon
- Lemon
- Orange
- Bergamot
- Sage
- Lavender
- Basil
- Thyme
- Mint
- Green tea
- Lemongrass
- Rosemary
- Iodine
- Pineapple
Other scent families
Although Michael Edwards' scent wheel highlights four prominent scent families, there are several other scent families that deserve recognition as well. These families fall outside his traditional classification and offer a wide range of scent experiences that are both unique and intriguing.
- Chypre: Inspired by the island of Cyprus, chypre fragrances combine the freshness of bergamot, the depth of oakmoss and the warm aroma of labdanum. They have a characteristic earthy and sensual profile, which makes them both mysterious and seductive.
- Gourmand: These fragrances transport you to a patisserie with their delicious, edible aromas. With notes reminiscent of vanilla, chocolate, caramel and other sweets, gourmand perfumes are like a dessert for the senses.
- Leather: The leather fragrance family mimics the rich and distinctive aroma of leather, often enriched with notes of tobacco, tar and smoke. These fragrances are strong and robust, leaving a lasting impression.
- Aldehyde: Aldehydes are organic compounds that add a sharp, bright quality to perfumes. Made famous by Chanel No. 5, they offer a sparkling top note that is both clean and sophisticated.
- Boozy: Think of the warmth and richness of a good glass of cognac or the sharp sweetness of rum. Boozy fragrances have an alcoholic note that is both warming and intoxicating.
- Minimalist: These fragrances are stripped down to their essence, often with only a few key ingredients. They are subtle and uncomplicated, making them perfect for lovers of simplicity and purity.
- Musky: Musk is a base note that adds warmth and depth to a perfume. Musky scents are both animalic and sensual, often used to give a perfume a long-lasting sillage.
- Powdery: Think of the soft scent of baby powder or the velvety feel of cosmetics. Powdery fragrances have a subtle, soft quality that is both classic and comfortable.
- Smoky: This fragrance family mimics the deep, dark scents of burnt wood, smoke and ash. They have an intense, almost meditative character and evoke images of campfires under the stars.